Lavender is one of the most treasured plants in British gardens, valued for its fragrant flowers, silvery foliage and versatility in borders, containers and hedging. It has been grown for centuries not only for its ornamental beauty but also for its practical uses in perfumes, oils, cooking and traditional medicine. Lavender is hardy and relatively low maintenance, but many gardeners find themselves uncertain about pruning. Left unpruned, lavender plants become woody, straggly and lose their compact shape, often flowering less with each passing year. Learning how to prune lavender plants properly is the key to keeping them vigorous, shapely and long lived.
Understanding lavender growth habits
Lavender is a woody perennial, which means its base gradually turns woody while new growth arises each year from the upper stems. Unlike shrubs that regenerate easily from old wood, lavender struggles to sprout from bare woody stems. This makes careful and regular pruning essential to maintain a balance between woody structure and soft new shoots. Without pruning, lavender soon becomes leggy, loses its dense mounded form and eventually dies back. Pruning encourages fresh growth and extends the life of the plant.
Types of lavender and their needs
There are several species of lavender commonly grown in the UK, and each benefits from slightly different pruning approaches. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the hardiest and most widely planted, known for its classic fragrance and neat growth habit. It requires annual pruning to maintain its dome shape. French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), with its distinctive butterfly like flower bracts, is less hardy and needs gentler pruning, often twice a year to prolong its flowering season. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia), a hybrid between English and Portuguese lavender, produces larger plants with long stems, requiring firm but careful pruning. Recognising the type of lavender you have ensures you give it the right treatment.
When to prune lavender
Timing is critical in lavender pruning. The main pruning is usually carried out in late summer or early autumn after flowering has finished. This allows time for new shoots to develop before winter sets in. In colder regions, some gardeners prefer to wait until spring to prune, reducing the risk of frost damage on new growth. Light trimming can also be done in spring to tidy up plants and remove winter damage. French lavender, which flowers earlier and longer, often benefits from a light trim in early summer after its first flush of flowers, followed by a harder prune later in the season.
How to prune English lavender
For English lavender, the goal is to maintain a neat mound of foliage while preventing the plant from becoming woody. After flowering, use sharp secateurs to cut back the spent flower stems and trim about two to three centimetres of this year’s leafy growth. Take care not to cut into the old woody stems, as these rarely regenerate. Aim to create a rounded shape that sheds water easily in winter, reducing the risk of rot. This annual trimming keeps English lavender compact and encourages a fresh flush of growth that will carry next year’s flowers.
How to prune French lavender
French lavender is less hardy and more sensitive than English varieties. It often flowers from late spring into summer, producing distinctive blooms with upright bracts. After the first wave of flowers fades, lightly trim the flower stems and a little of the soft growth to encourage another flush of blooms. In late summer, prune more thoroughly, but still avoid cutting into hard wood. The aim is to maintain a neat dome without stressing the plant, as French lavender is shorter lived and more prone to frost damage. Covering plants with fleece in winter can help protect them in colder climates.
How to prune Lavandin
Lavandin plants are larger and more vigorous than English lavender, producing long stems that can sprawl if not maintained. They are best pruned firmly after flowering in late summer, cutting back the flower stalks and trimming the foliage to create a rounded shape. Again, avoid cutting into the old wood. Lavandin can tolerate a slightly harder prune than English lavender, but caution is still needed. With consistent care, these plants can remain attractive and productive for many years.
General pruning tips
Regardless of type, there are a few principles that apply to all lavenders. Always use sharp, clean secateurs to make neat cuts and reduce the risk of disease. Never prune back into bare woody stems with no green shoots, as lavender does not readily reshoot from old wood. Aim to maintain a dome shaped plant, as this helps prevent water pooling at the crown, which can cause rot. Remove any dead or diseased stems as you prune, keeping the plant healthy. Regular light pruning each year is preferable to infrequent hard pruning, which often shortens the plant’s life.
Rejuvenating old lavender plants
Sometimes gardeners inherit old lavender plants that have become leggy and woody through neglect. While lavender does not usually regenerate from hard pruning, it is sometimes possible to rejuvenate such plants. One method is to cut back one third of the plant at a time over two or three years, encouraging new growth gradually. Another option is to take cuttings from healthy shoots and start new plants, effectively replacing the old plant with fresh ones. In many cases, propagation from cuttings is the most reliable way to continue enjoying lavender in the garden once older plants decline.
Caring for lavender after pruning
After pruning, lavender benefits from light feeding and watering to support new growth. In well drained soils, a mulch of gravel or grit around the base helps reflect light and keep the crown dry. Avoid heavy organic mulches that hold moisture, as lavender prefers drier conditions. Ensure the plant receives plenty of sunlight, as lavender thrives in full sun. With these supportive measures, plants quickly recover from pruning and prepare to deliver another season of aromatic blooms.
Common mistakes to avoid
A common mistake is cutting lavender back too hard into old wood, which usually results in bare stumps with little regrowth. Pruning too late in autumn can also be problematic, as new growth may not harden before frost, leading to winter damage. Neglecting to prune at all is another issue, as lavender quickly becomes woody and loses its neat shape. Overwatering or applying rich organic mulches after pruning can cause the crown to rot. Avoiding these mistakes ensures lavender remains a reliable and attractive feature in the garden.
Why pruning lavender is important
Pruning is not simply about appearance. It helps extend the lifespan of lavender plants, encourages healthy new shoots and maintains a shape that enhances the garden. Regular pruning also improves flowering, as it stimulates the plant to produce fresh stems that will carry the next season’s blooms. For those using lavender in cooking or crafts, pruning provides an opportunity to harvest stems at their best. Ultimately, proper pruning keeps lavender thriving and prevents it from becoming a tired, woody shrub.
Conclusion
So, how do you prune lavender plants? It begins with understanding the type of lavender you are growing and pruning it at the right time of year. English lavender needs a firm trim after flowering, French lavender benefits from two lighter trims, and lavandin requires a balanced approach to manage its larger growth. The key is to cut back flower stems and soft growth without touching the old woody base, maintaining a rounded, healthy shape. With annual pruning and proper aftercare, lavender plants remain compact, vibrant and filled with fragrant blooms year after year.
